A Month in Edinburgh (November 2020)
After nearly two months in Garforth, we were ready to leave, but mostly because of the shitty bed situation. It felt sad to leave our Grandma & Grandpa hosts , Carol and Kevin, who were such good neighbors and took really good care of us. Carol even sent us off with ribbon wrapped bags of Halloween candy. Our travel day was easy. We took an Uber to the Garforth station and hopped on a super short train ride to York, and then onto the nice first class train for our ride to Edinburgh.
We walked from the station in Edinburgh to our Airbnb, which was only half a mile and was right on the Royal Mile - at the Holyrood Palace end of it. Our host, Richard, was waiting for us on the street and took us up into the building - a fifth floor walkup with no elevator, fuck my life. He was really nice and gave us a quick tour, showed us a map and then got out of our way. We were pretty beat so we headed up the narrow close across the street to the nearby Tesco Express and grabbed some quick stuff for dinner. It was super crowded - likely because it was near a compound of dorm rooms.
And the next morning woke up to these truly stunning, epic views from the gigantic windows in the living room and kitchen - this first photo is looking at the Toolbooth Tavern and up the Royal Mile, and the second one is looking onto the epic graveyard of Canongate Kirk and then up onto Calton Hill:
That first morning we went out for coffee, going out towards Holyrood Palace, and passing St. Mary’s Bathhouse to go to Little Fitzroy:
It was a darling little place and there was a line, which is always good. But I discovered I don’t like single origin coffee. I like a basic ass blend. So my flat white was good, but not great. Kris loved his little machiatto though, and we both got pastries that were pretty good. We initially sat in a little park because the coffee shop was takeaway only, which sorta sucked because it was ass fuckin’ cold out. But the neighborhood we stumbled into was really cute and dumped us out in front of this gigantic bookstore, Topping & Company, which just seemed like a nice idea on a cold day. It was fun to browse and randomly someone came up to me asking if I wanted a cup of tea or coffee, which I assumed I would have to pay money for, but in the moment I didn’t care at all because it just sounded so good and it turns out it’s FREE. Like - they just serve you a full on tea service and they have cute little tables and everything. It was so goddamn quaint:
Afterwards, we went home to watch the F1 race and my favorite driver, Daniel Ricciardo, got a podium and it was just the fucking best. Then we went back out and walked to a music store and Kris got himself a cheap little bass so he’d have something to play while we were travelling. It started raining after we left, but we walked through The Meadows anyway and it was so pretty. It’s just this gigantic green park and there is a row of swank-ass, penthouse-looking buildings that line one side of it:
And then we continued our walk home, which was just epic in all directions. This place is fucking insane.
The next day we went to another coffee shop - Black Magic Espresso or some shit like that? (edited: hahahahahahaha it’s Black Medicine Coffee Co). It was super fucking cute inside and we sat in the window, which was a super contained little corner. We had yummy coffee and pastries and Kris actually went up for round two because we’re ballers now and can spend $20+ on coffee and treats like it ain’t no thang. Afterwards we walked over to Greyfriars Kirk cemetery and that was pretty epic. It was gigantic and had some really cool views.
“If I was a coffee shop owner, I’d charge like $10 for a pumpkin spice latte because: fuck those assholes, and if people ask: 10?! Why is it so expensive?! I’d say: cuz you’re a fuckin asshole.”
From the cemetery, you go down a little back street (Candle Makers Row) and it leads you right into Haymarket Square, which is this gigantic square lined with pubs and shops. On one end of the square you have Victoria Street, which connects Haymarket Square to the Royal Mile and is one of the most beautiful streets of all time.
And on the other end of the Haymarket Square you have the Edinburgh Castle - we exited the square this way and walked around the back side of the castle, which poops you right into Princes Street Gardens - from there we exited and walked up the hill towards the top of the royal mile, which takes you past *some old fucking school or something, but it has an interior courtyard that’s pretty jaw dropping. After we sat in there for a minute, we walked up to the top of the mile and then followed it all the way down to the bottom back home.
(* seriously this jaw dropping courtyard….it will take your breath away — it’s called New College and it’s just totally unassuming, but WHOA. You’ll see.)
Just a couple of choad’s….livin’ their best life.
The next morning we went for coffee at Union Brew Lab - again sitting in the window in an out of the way spot. We decided to take an Uber over to the National Galleries of Scotland and start the Dean’s Village walk from there. It’s one of the most epic, jaw-dropping walks. Definitely venture off into the Dean Cemetary - that was incredible. And the walking path on the map, if you zoom in, is called “Water of Leith Walkway”. (just put “Dean Village” into your map and you’ll be able to zoom in and see). Popping off the path and back out into town around Stockbridge Market is a good ending point:
These are all from the Dean Village walk:
So yeah - we popped off at Stockbridge, which is an area we were familiar with from our last trip, and decided to go and have lunch at the same cafe we had visited on our last trip - Patisserie Florentin. It was really fun to just be hungry and just go out to lunch without a second thought (the second thought being funds because we were so fucking poor for so fucking long). We sat down and he said, “We should go into that whiskey shop and ask ‘em if they got any Kirkland’s Signature.” We started sitting outside, but then it just got too cold so we moved inside since it wasn’t too crowded. We each had bagel sandwiches and they were both deelish. Afterwards we went home for a bit and then somehow had enough energy to go back out and walk to the top of Calton Hill for the sunset. That was a fuckin ass fuck of a hike up there, but it was really fucking cool.
(caption from an Instagram post) I don't know I mean maybe this is the cutest picture of us ever?!
I was thinking of some shmoopy poopy caption, but really just wanted to capture the sentiment that we've legit been traveling for 65 days now and aren't even remotely tired of each other. I mean - we were already together 24/7 in our old lives, so we're used to it. But still. We have been together 24/7 on this trip, no joke, aside from shitting, which we still do strictly with the door closed. And will always. ALWAYS.
But seriously. No arguments, save for the tiny bullshit ones like the other day when I said, "My vibrator's almost dead" and he said, "Well you better plug it in then." and I gave him the stink eye because I passive aggressively wanted him to do it for me because for some reason that's his job in my mind. I keep his load rags fresh, clean, and stacked on his nightstand, so I mean....
Otherwise it's just snuggles and walks and nice co-working time together and cooking and non-verbal communication like when we're in a busy intersection and he taps me and I blindly follow him across the street because that's just how good it is.
We're MFEO.
The next day we walked out the back way towards Holyrood Palace and alongside Holyrood Park, taking the long way to the 101 Bakery. It was kind of another butt fuck of a walk - there are so many hills in Edinburgh. But the bakery was insane. We got like 6 things because it all just looked ridick. And we went out to lunch again - at this little cafe on the same street that looked sorta like a Bill’s (Bill’s is a very cute chain of cafes in the U.K. - go to one if you can). I was a little iffy on the atmosphere at first and also it was oppressively warm inside. But we stayed and the food was good. Afterwards we walked back through the Meadows and sat on a bench to eat some of our treats.
Then we walked through Haymarket again and ducked up this narrow staircase to get the most epic shot of Edinburgh ever (The Vennel). Then we cut up Victoria Street back to the mile and continued our every day walk back home.
The next day we took yet another insane balls ass walk, again heading out towards Holyrood Palace and through Holyrood Park. Our destination was the Sheep’s Heid Pub and the Google Map walking directions were great - the walk takes you alongside the park and down along a beautiful lake and then you’ll pass a 12th century church - Duddingston Kirk. That church had a really beautiful small cemetery and we sat outside because it was so beautiful and was a super sunny day. Right on the other side of the church is Dr. Neil’s Garden, which was right on the lake and another beautiful spot to sit. Then finally we got to the pub, which was nestled in the park, and ate lunch out on the patio. Our sandwiches were good, but not great and kind of small portions, but all in all it was a nice experience. Later that night we walked down Victoria Street to go to the M&S at the bottom the hill and stock up.
Another day we went to this place Kris found called The Edinburgh Larder. We saw in the window again in a little nest of a spot and ordered coffee and breakfast. My coffee was not great because I ordered it with Oatly, but I don’t think they used the barista blend (it’s nasty if you steam the regular Oatly) and also it was single origin, and we’ve established that I do not like single origin coffee.
ANYWAY. My breakfast sandwich was really good and Kris had a salmon eggs benedict that he continued to talk about for several days. It was one of the most memorable breakfasts.
It was foggy, which was a super cool mood, so after brunch we just did our “normal” walk - went all the way up the mile, then cut down to Princes Street gardens and walked around the backside and into Haymarket Square, and then back up Victoria Street to the mile, and down the mile back home. It’s insane that that’s our backyard right now.
The next day we finally went to The Milkman, which I had been wanting to try this whole time. It’s at the bottom of Cockburn Street and it couldn’t have been more darling. We sat out front at a picnic table and had delicious coffee and treats. Afterwards we walked back up Cockburn and up the mile to branch off and walk along this terrace street that ran along the back side of the castle. It popped us back into the cemetery and into Princes Street gardens and was really nice. It was another spooky, foggy day that made for some cool pictures.
The next day we walked across Princes Street Gardens and strait into the center of Dean Village. It was such a beautiful day and the most glorious walk. On our way home, we walked to John Lewis and bought a fucking Moka Pot because french presses were getting really old and we are missing our espresso machine. From there we walked along the bottom of Calton Hill and walked home DOWN Jacob’s Ladder, thank fuck.
The next day we went and had afternoon tea at the Scottish National Gallery and ended up leaving feeling kind of meh about it. The setting was nice - they have big picture windows that are overlooking Princes Street Gardens. But we left both saying, “I think I’m over afternoon tea”. Ha. Had a nice quiet afternoon at home after that and made a bomb ass pizza for dinner. We’re currently watching The Undoing on HBO and of course Gogglebox and the Bake Off.
The next day we finally decided to go to Holyrood Palace, which is literally 3 minutes from our front door. It was a little bit spendy, but included unlimited entry so we figured we might get our money’s worth going back a few times. But it ended up being a pretty quick walk through and was sort of….underwhelming? After having been on the royal yacht and into the tower of London and whatnot….I don’t think it was totally worth doing. But I mean. We didn’t have a bad time. And the audio tour was cool. It was sort of funny though - we were out of there in barely over an hour where we had thought it would be like our whole day. So then it was like, okay now what? We started walking back up the mile intending to find lunch, but ended up bailing down the alley to the tesco and just getting shit to make bacon sandwiches at home.
The rest of the weekend was pretty quiet. We walked to 101 Bakery again and got loads more treats, but mostly just cooked and nested and rested. One of the days though we did go out for another long walk up the mile and ducked down onto Victoria Terrace, which is the street above Victoria Street and that was super beautiful. This whole city it’s just ridiculous. So many little nooks and so much charm every fucking where you turn. These are from Victoria Street:
Another day we had like literally the most perfect day. We slept in late and then had two-sided sex. At that point it was late enough to go out for the day so I suggested we get our “morning” coffee out, which we never do. So that was super fun. We walked down to the Milkman and got coffees to-go that we stood outside the shop and drank, looking up at Cockburn Street.
Then we decided to have lunch and sat in the window at Scram. Then we just wandered around afterwards, but it was like the perfect wander. We walked up the mile and poked our heads into all of the closes. Kris said he wished he could roll a bowling ball down one - like at people that were walking up. We walked down one of the closes and it popped us into this cute little courtyard and I had Kris take a picture of me because I was wearing my favorite outfit and just felt really cute. We walked down lady stair’s close again because just, why not. Then we walked onto Victoria Terrace and then down Victoria Street and into Haymarket Square. I mean honestly. It’s just the most beautiful city of all time.
And uh, yeah. I guess that’s it. Ha. It was a great month and it was bittersweet to head to Duns. On the one hand we were ready to move to a smaller, less crowded spot, but on the other hand it was really a once in a lifetime opportunity to not only spend a month in Edinburgh, but to do it at this unprecedented time with zero tourists.
Coffee / Pastries:
Eat:
Things to do:
Topping & Company (bookstore with free tea service)
The Meadows (lovely park)
Greyfriars Kirk Cemetery > Candle Makers Row > Haymarket Square > get epic shot of Edinburgh at The Vennel > Victoria Street > Royal Mile
Greyfriars Kirk Cemetery > Candle Makers Row > Haymarket Square > get epic shot of Edinburgh at The Vennel > Walk around back side of Edinburgh Castle > Princes Street Gardens
Start the Dean’s Village walk from National Galleries of Scotland, pop off the path and back out into town around Stockbridge Market and eat at Patisserie Florentin
Calton Hill for the sunset
Sheep’s Heid Pub - use the Google Map walking directions
Tour the Royal Yacht Britannia (not mentioned in this blog, but we did it on a different trip and it was fuckin awesome, so very worth the money).